The appellation’s grandest domaine, Comte Armand has been overseen by winemaker Paul Zinetti since 2014. Although it takes many years to reach its full potential, it’s worth the wait as with maturity Epeneux is like a universe in a glass, exploding exponentially in all directions at once. It has great intensity and a weight of rich fruit and impressively structured tannins but like great Barolo, it shows lively floral, elegance and purity too. As long-lived as many of the Côtes de Nuits’ most renowned wines, it has long been contended that if ever one Côte de Beaune wine deserves elevation to Grand Cru, this is it.