As Burgundy becomes ever more expensive, thankfully Chalonnais winemakers in the south have risen to the challenge of fulfilling the need for more affordable, delicious wines. François Raquillet, an 11th generation grower in Mercurey, is widely recognised as the best producer in the village and one of the leaders in the region generally. He has 11 hectares of superbly sited, mostly old, vines and believes in low yields, mature (rather than super-ripe) fruit and a severe selection at the table de tri. The Wine Advocate’s William Kelley is certainly a fan, saying Francois “delivers generous, gourmand wines that are succulent and pleasure-bent but also possess levels of complexity and depth that distinguishes them from many of their peers.” Our tasting of his 2018s was a real pleasure (and not just because arriving in Mercurey the sun finally came out after two days of sold rain!). Both whites and reds here offered impressive texture, freshness and verve alongside fruit at once deep and crunchy and with a lithe spine of acidity, all promising further development. There is a lot of wine here for the money and whether beginning a collection or wishing to augment grander, more expensive purchases, a few cases should be in every cellar.
Sixty year old vines in clay over limestone soils, from a 1.13ha south-facing vineyard, right next to the maison. This is brighter and more open than the VV, with a more floral perfume, that is less intense and dark, and more refined. Bright, juicy red berries lead the palate, with violets and a herbaceous lift, tannins keep the fruit moving back to a well textured, still juicy finish. Tom, Wine Guru
91/100, Tim Atkin MW