A really pleasing set of wines from Domaines Bichot, with once again the highlights coming from jewel in the crown Domaine du Clos Frantin, although honourable mention for the sumptuous Beaune 1er Cru ‘Clos de la Mouche’ – one of my favourite whites and another “under the radar” gem (see video). I think 2019 is Clos Frantin’s best vintage since the glorious 2015, and really shows what a great year it is for Vosne Romanée, from bottom to top. The village Vosne is a dinner party must (especially in magnums – and like with 2015 I’ll certainly be snaffling a case for myself), and the 1er Cru Malconsorts is sensational – “an iron fist in an iron gauntlet wrapped in velvet”. The Echezeaux – a Decanter Award “Best In Show” winner (like Honest Grapes :) ) this year is again superb, and there is a new addition to the range – Vosne 1er Cru ‘Les Rouges’ – a vineyard lying atop Echezeaux – which particularly impressed for its density, drive, and definition – and at a great value point, above the village wine but below Malconsorts.
We also had a really interesting discussion with Delphine about more inclusive wine language which has led me to adopt shapes to better describe the character of different cuvées, rather than the increasingly hackneyed and lazy “feminine” and “masculine” tropes. I’d encourage all to try the same – even if thinking of wines as circles, square, or square within circles, or even isosceles triangles, might take an epistemological shift. Its overdue!
"From vines averaging 40 years old in two clay-rich parcels totalling a little under a hectare, 25% whole bunch and with 30% new oak, this sets out the domaine’s stall rather well. This is a great introduction to Clos Frantin, to Cote de Nuits Burgundy in fact, as it is straight down the line, textbook juice. The slightly heavier soils give a generosity to the fruit that defies the NSG’s reputation for austerity but there is no lack of vibrancy. " Tom Harrow, Wine Guru