The white grape cousin of Pinot Noir, this is one relative tired of hiding in the shadows. A good introduction to the wines of Alsace, France's northernmost still wine region. It used to be invaded and reclaimed by Germany in more troubled times. Although it is resolutely French now, this might explain the familiar fluted bottle. A great all-round food partner, it tastes a little like a light Chardonnay would if it understood subtlety.