Another great showing from Philippe, certainly belying any early doubts we had about the potential for high quality whites from 2018. Early harvesting (starting 1st September) and abundant yields (50-60hl/ha) have ensured typicity, pH levels to balance the ripeness, and helped avoid excessive concentration. The definition of the fruit and transparency to the terroir impresses with Philippe’s continuing preference for large oak barrels (the crus use up to 30% new oak but two thirds tonneau for better integration) really paying dividends. We normally choose to concentrate on two out Philippe’s four individual 1er Cru Chassagne sites but were sufficiently impressed by the quality here to offer three.
Philippe’s makes 15 barrels of the village wine, from two cuvées – one on the Puligny side, which does more battonage for a fuller flavour, and one on the Chassagne side. Initially muted nose, unfurls with stone fruits, pear skin and white flowers. Palate is nicely poised with plenty of acidity that pulls the ripe fruit through, and there is good mineral drive on the saline finish. Quite reserved currently, it will fatten out. Tom, Wine Guru
90/100, Tim Atkin MW