Every second bottle of wine drunk in Soviet Russia was from Moldova, a country with more vines per capita than any other. Now this cornucopia of raw material benefits from modern know-how and investment, resulting in some amazing wines. Since opening in 2008 Château Vartely has established itself as one of Moldova's top wineries. The vines grow in conditions and soils very similar to those of the best plots of Bordeaux. Winemaking, from grape harvesting to barrel ageing and bottling, takes place under the watchful eye of Arcadie Fosnea. A graduate of Weinsberg, Germany, he is drawing worldwide acclaim for wines like this sumptuous, dark fruited Cabernet. Decant and savour with a juicy rib-eye steak, hearty casseroles or a cheeseboard.