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They call this Mosaique because its made up of different wines from a whole mosaic of vineyards in the two best champagne zones - the Montagne de Reims and the Cotes des Blancs - and most of them are grand cru or premier cru, the top sites. But that's not all. This is a non-vontage wine, and 20 per cent of the blend is of old reserve wines kept back to add richness. Add to that a period of three to four years when the wine lies on its yeast lees, soaking up the creamy softness they exude, and ... well you'll be getting thirsty. But it really works. There are so many mellow flavours flickering in and out of the wine: white bread crust, or is it yeasty dough? Probably both. Baked cream, milk chocolate or creme fraiche? All three. Biscuits, fluffy apples, a friendly foaming cascade of bubbles... very good stuff.
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