The Classic cooking from Galvin requires Classic wines.
For his Saint Valentine’s Day menu, I guess you must start with a romantic glass of Pink Champagne. Most of the Grande Marques great Champagne Houses have a pink Champagne these day, but always far more expensive that their regular white fizz. I don’t know why, unless it is marketing costs, as it really doesn’t cost that much more to make!
There is, however, a wonderful value pink Champagne in Majestic Wine, which they have stocked for many years and has quite a following. A small grower Devaux makes a lovely gently pink Champagne called Oeil de Pedrix, which means partridge eye, referring to the gentle pinkish grey colour picked up during making from the Pinot noir skins. It is £27.99 per bottle or only £20.99 if you buy a mixed case of six.
The Champagne will also work with most of the starter courses, with the pastry and focaccia bringing out the “bread” yeasty character in the fizz.
Both rich white and gentle reds are best with the risotto, and if you also try his vegetarian and non-vegetarian menus these wines are perfect as well, but my personal preference for the truffle risotto and the supreme of chicken would be a good gentle red like a Pinot Noir, particularly classic red Burgundy.
The whites I would recommend are Monthelie 2018 white “Sous le Cellier” from Florent Garaudet. A beautifully made classic white Burgundy, 100% Chardonnay from the prime site in the small village between Puligny Montrachet and Volnay. Gentle honeyed citrus and white peach, persistent yet gentle.
This is a very special wine and the £49 price tag reflects the quality, but we have an exclusive code for £20 off your first order of £100 or more, and £40 off your first order of £200 or more.
The other Chardonnay is a big rich round wine from the South of France in Limoux.
Find it in Majestic Wine for £40 or £36 for a mixed case of six, the Domaine Begude “Arcturus” wild ferment Chardonnay 2018.
Wonderful ripe fruit, pineapple mango, peach with a toasty oaky character, this is a big wine.
But as I said, my preference with the risotto and the chicken would be a classic Pinot noir.
Again I would strongly recommend the Monthelie rouge from the young dynamic Florent Garaudet. His Vielles Vignes, or old vine, red Burgundy is wonderfully elegant, persistent but not big or blowsy and the perfect marriage for these classic dishes (£42 from Artigiano).
Majestic also have Nicolas Potel’s very good Bourgogne Rouge 2018, with bright soft berry fruit and light juicy charm. £13.99 or £11.99 for a mixed case of six bottles.
Christopher Burr, MW,
5th February 2021