What is Mezcal? How does it differ from Tequila?
Mezcal is an up and coming spirit made, much like Tequila, from agave. It can be made from any variety of agave using the heart of the plant, called the pina. Tequila can only be made with blue agave and from more specific regons in Mexico. In fact, Tequila is a type of Mezcal.
Generally, Mezcal is renowned for its smoky flavour due to the tradition of roasting agave in a pit whilst Tequila is steamed and so is cleaner flavoured. Under the smoke, you'll also find them floral, fruity and even a bit earthy.
A History Of Mezcal
Before Mezcal was drank in the Americas, the natives had a fermented drink from agave sap called pulque before the Spanish influence. As part of Spain's dominion, the Filipino migrants moved to the new world in the late 1500s and early 1600s and brought Filipino distillation stills over, a distinct and small type of still. These were adopted by the indigenous people and used for agave, and so Mezcal was born.
The first mention of a distilled agave spirit in records was in 1619. By 1938 the governor of Nueva Galicia started regulating the sale of Mezcal and it became banned shortly after, pushing it towards underground trade. This moved production inland to avoid prohibition and to make use of the plentiful wild agave plants which the Spanish authorities were unable to destroy. Distilleries moved to even more remote places during this time, establishing in Jalisco and El Arenal, which is famous for using blue agave which eventually became Tequila. Nowadays, the oldest agave distilleries still use Filipino stills in recognition of their history and tradtiion.
Mezcal Categories
Mezcal - The basic category is produced with highly efficient modern techniques and equipment, saving costs but resulting in an arguably inferior style.
Artisanal Mezcal - This is produced using artisanal stills made of copper or steel. The agave heart is cooked in a pit or clay oven and milling must be done with millstones or mallets. The juice is then fermented in animal skins or tanks made of stone, clay or wood. They can be distilled up to three times depending on the region.
Ancestral Mezcal - This is completely traditional without any modern equipment. The agave hearts are cooked in pits and crushed by mallets or stone mills. The juice is fermented as in Artisanal but must only be distilled with a Filipino-style still made of clay or wood.
Artisanal and Ancestral Mezcal's use of wood and clay imparts additional flavour during distillation which results in more flavoursome, characterful Mezcals.
There are 6 classes to be aware of as well:
- Blanco/Joven - unaged Mezcal.
- Madurado en vidrio - the Mezcal is stored in glass for a year at least and buried underground, allowing alcohol to soften.
- Reposado - this is Mezcal stored in wood between 2 months and a year.
- Anejo - Mezcal stored in wood for more than a year. Must be less than 1,000 litres.
- Abocado - this is flavoured Mezcal, using worms, damiana, lime, orange, mango or honey. Other fruits and herbs can also be used.
- Destilado con/Mezcales de pechuga - this is where the second or third distillation has other fruits, herbs or even meats added.