The Great Champagne Tour – Boizel & Moet et Chandon
Welcome to part 4, which is a little overdue. We now take the tour from the mighty city of Reims to the smaller commune of Epernay, the principal trading post for Champagne in the region and home to many of the oldest, most prestigious houses.
The drive between the two iconic Champagne locations is a joy in itself. Straight through the middle of the national park, I think there was only a 10-minute stretch in a wooded area that you couldn’t see sweeping vineyards and various other recognisable houses. There are plenty of brown signs to follow, whether it’s a drink you’re after or scenic route.
Epernay doesn’t have as much to do as Reims but it is an ideal launch site for exploring the surrounding region, be that by car, biking along the canals or guided tours to do the driving for you. In the town itself, the best thing you can do is sample as much as possible from the numerous Champagne bars around the town! After all, the main highlight of the town is the famous Avenue de Champagne, a long, cobbled street lined on either side by imposing Chateau-esque mansions most of which have a bar you can pop into for a tasting flight.
But, onto the tours!
Boizel Champagne Tour
Boizel is a smaller, less recognizable house to many UK consumers but it’s difficult to reconcile that once you’ve tasted their Champagne. Founded in 1834 by a pastry chef couple, Boizel first found success in the burgeoning trade with England for over 100 years. WWI came during this period and the cellars were used as hospitals for the wounded as well as maturing/hiding Champagne from the Germans. Still in family hands, Jules Boizel revitalised the company after the war with shipments to Australia commencing in 1923. WWII of course had similar damaging effects, but Rene Boizel, Jules’ son, overcame the same challenges as his mother and father to build back up after war.
One thing in Boizel’s history is consistent, family. The house has always been led by man and wife, brother and sister. Good things come in two’s and, now under the 6th generation, Boizel maintains this approach still today. Under their new leadership, the house on the Avenue de Champagne was restored and opened it’s doors in 2018, complete with very suave shop, new vats and barrels for precise winemaking and more.
The tour itself is quite intimate and makes you feel like you’re at the peak of winemaking as you’re led between large tanks, new barrels and vats. You then descend into the atmospheric cellars, get the making talk and enjoy the experience. Like most houses with a bit of history, there’s a museum part of the cellar filled with old vintages. And yes, they still have a few bottles from the houses founding year of 1834! The other thing that stood apart from the other tours was the ancient bit of kit they had in the cellar. An extremely old label printing kit that must have been used since near the foundation of Boizel. It is of course automated now.
The Boizel Tasting
One of the more impressive tastings I have to say. You are seated in a sort of small conference room around a big table and given little tasting cards of the wines you’ll be having. It felt very swish.
And this is where Boizel quickly entered my top Champagne houses. The first we tried was the classic Boizel Brut Réserve. A 40/35/25 split between Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Meunier with three years of lees ageing (a good sign). The juice is only from the first press, meaning the premium stuff, and they add 40% reserve wine which serves to add real complexity and depth. It’s expressive, complex, precise and elegant all at once, with peach, apricot, white blossom, acacia, candied pear and apple abounding. And because you aren’t paying for the name (yet), the value is extremely good.
We then moved on to the Boizel Grand Vintage, giving a great comparison between the two key house Bruts. It’s a 50/50 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay blend that’s spent 9 years on lees. This carries even more depth and complexity as you might expect. Almond, dried fruit, floral, quincy, pastry. All these combine in a rich palate and aroma package, yet the wine retains excellent elegance thanks to high acidity. The finish is long, lingering with a little saltiness that really balance this out nicely.
If you haven’t had Boizel, you should.
Moet et Chandon Cellar Tour
With some downtime between tours, you might think it’s a good break from tasting Champagne for a few days straight. I say that’s a waste of an opportunity. Before the big event at Moet, we paid the Champagne Collard-Picard and Champagne Esterlin bars a visit on the Avenue de Champagne. It was well worth it, so why not?
But Moet. The biggest house and one of the very first along the Avenue is what you’re really here for. The tour kicks off enjoying the finer things, reclining in the 17th/18th century style drawing room with varying historical documents proudly displayed including a cellar book demonstrating visits by people such as Napoleon and William of Orange.
Once the tour itself begins, you first get to experience the Moet-centric art exhibition in a dimly lit, cellar mood-setting room with some very impressive works touting the hours spent making them. Then down into the cellars, with many miles of corridoes stacked with maturing bottles. It was certainly one of the more pristinely cut cellars we went into, as per the Moet image.
The Moet et Chandon Tasting
We were on the Imperial Tour, which of course includes a glass of the classic Imperial Brut and the Imperial Rose. Again, I’d stress that I recommend doing the basic tours so you can have a good impression of comparison between houses as well as the fact you can always buy a glass of the premium stuff off tour at the many bars.
The Moet tasting rooms are underground in the cellars, but done up incredibly fancily. Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial needs little introduction. A classic Champagne with lemon, biscuit green apple, floral, brioche and mineral notes. Popular for a reason. The Moet & Chandon Rose Imperial is probably equally well-known, boasting strawberry, raspberry, wild cherry, pink floral notes and a little pepper.
In truth, Moet is not my favourite Champagne house, but it is the largest brand in the world and possibly the bestselling. Where they do shine however is Dom Perignon, but that requires a different budget and occasion.
Outside the tasting room is a beautiful bar with a wonderful view over their imperial looking hotel and the rolling vineyards of the region behind. Perfect if you fancy another few.
Shop Moet et Chandon
And that concludes another day of challenging the liver. Well, there was more drunk at dinner (of course), but I honestly have forgotten the names. Rest assured that most restaurants you jump into will have a large Champagne list by the glass meaning you have the chance to taste all sorts from someone you’ve never heard of, and in my case may never again!