Crozes-Hermitage, on a fertile plain encircling the stony hill of Hermitage, offers less heroic styles for sooner drinking. There is much to admire in these elegant northern Rhône Syrahs: spicy smokiness evoking bacon, black olives and thyme. At his estate in Mercurol, Philippe Desmure and daughter Emilie preserve essence of Crozes with minimum intervention methods. With its supple red fruit and roasted ham aroma, this is perfect with slow-cooked pork.